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Double Breasted Style: The Next Great Suit
by Hendrik Pohl
Single breasted, two- or three-button suits have been the de facto standards in suiting for most of the last two decades. Heck, you probably don't see anybody wearing anything else. Expect all that to change in the next few seasons, though.
Double breasted suits, which were fairly common in the Sixties through the Eighties, are making a very big comeback all over the world. It all started a couple of years ago, when some of the most well-known tastemakers began bringing the style back. Now it's gone official, with everyone from Jude Law to models at fashion week sporting the trend. And it doesn't look like it'll be going away soon.
Why Double Breasted?Simply put, it sets you apart in a crowd where everyone is wearing a suit that looks oh so similar to what everyone else is already wearing. And despite (or probably because of) its 'traditional' status, double breasted suits can easily be adjusted to a number of looks. One double breasted suit can do double duty both to finish off a traditional look with a twist and a rakish, Bohemian outfit.
The trick to the flexibility of double breasted suits all boils down to the looser rules on dress today. Whereas it would've been unimaginable for a double breasted suit to go sans shirt and necktie in the Seventies, that kind of combination is now an acceptable, even trendy look. Once people realized that the double breast was good for more than just office shirts and power ties, the suit's full potential was unleashed.
Wearing Double BreastedAs a trend, double breasted suits are still fairly new; don't expect them to start popping up at affordable department stores anytime soon, as they've just begun appearing on designer runways. You'll have better chances if you were to get your own DB suit tailored, not only to get a better fit but for you to have more control over how it's made.
Tell your tailor or whoever will be taking your measurement to give the suit as slim a fit as possible. One of the most critical elements of the modern double breasted suit is its trim, figure-hugging cut, as opposed to the boxy shape and overstuffed shoulders of the decades past. Fit is an important enough factor in suits as it is, but it's even more crucial in double breasted suits because it'll be even more visible, as the suit is often buttoned up.
Don't forget all the rules on how to choose this suit's single breasted siblings, as they're mostly identical in that respect. The suit should fall at most to cover your seat; shorter cuts are also good to create a more modern silhouette. The suit's shoulders should be in line with yours. Each kind of body is better suited to a certain kind of vent at the back.
Make the most of the double breasted suit as a traditional fashion statement. Skip the boring old plain buttons and amp up the style by having the tailor install brass or metallic ones. Mix and match classic shirts and modern neckties to give you that anachronistic look. Do all that without forgetting the gentleman's most important accessory, the pocket square.
Single breasted suits are and will always be a very classic choice when it comes to men's formal wear. It's the kind that's safe, where you'll never go wrong. But if you want to make something of a statement and raise the style stakes to the next level, then a double breasted suit is the best and most fashionable way to go.
About the Author
Fashion, style, dress code - all things Pohl is a regular writer for. To read more of his articles please visit his author page. He is also the founder of tie retailer bows-n-ties.com/ - a site for mens neckties, bow ties and cuff links.
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